The Scent Atlas

The Dadès Valley smells of roses in May. The Rosa damascena harvest lasts three weeks. Women pick the flowers at dawn, before the heat volatilises the essential oils. The petals are distilled the same day — 4,000 kilograms of petals produce one litre of pure rose oil. Kelaat M'gouna, the town at the centre of the valley, hosts the rose festival each year. The distilleries line the road.

Marrakech smells of orange blossom in spring. The bitter orange trees — bigaradiers — that line the streets and fill the riad courtyards bloom in March and April. The blossoms are distilled into orange flower water — ma zhar — used in pastries, salads, and the traditional morning drink of warm milk with orange blossom.

The Middle Atlas smells of cedar. The Cedrus atlantica forests around Azrou and Ifrane are the largest remaining stands of Atlas cedar in the world. The wood contains natural oils — cedrol and cedrene — that repel insects and resist rot. Cedar has been the structural timber of Moroccan architecture for centuries. The smell of a freshly carved cedar ceiling is the smell of a riad being born.

Argan has no scent until it is roasted. The raw oil — cosmetic grade, pressed from unroasted kernels — is nearly odourless. The culinary oil — pressed from roasted kernels — has a deep, nutty aroma that defines the amlou paste of the Souss: argan oil, almonds, and honey, ground together.

The souk has its own olfactory map. The spice quarter smells of cumin and dried roses. The leather quarter smells of tannin and dye. The woodworkers' quarter smells of thuya — the aromatic conifer burl used for boxes, chess sets, and table tops. The perfume sellers — attarine — offer oud, musk, amber, and sandalwood from glass bottles without labels. The scent is the label.

Explore the full interactive module — with the olfactory geography mapped, source chemistry, and the scent calendar of Morocco — at Dancing with Lions: https://www.dancingwiththelions.com/data/scent-atlas