Rissani

Rissani was the capital of the Tafilalet oasis — the largest oasis in Morocco — and the cradle of the Alaouite dynasty, which has ruled Morocco since the 17th century. Moulay Ali Cherif, the dynasty's founder, is buried here.

The town is known for three things: the souk, the ksour, and the proximity to Merzouga. The souk — held on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday — is one of the great markets of southeastern Morocco. Livestock, dates, spices, and household goods fill a labyrinth of covered alleys and open squares. The donkey parking lot alone is worth the visit.

The ksour around Rissani — fortified villages built from pisé — are among the finest in the Draa-Tafilalet region. Ksar Oulad Abdelhalim, partially restored, gives a sense of the scale and complexity of oasis architecture.

Merzouga and the Erg Chebbi dunes are 35 kilometres south. Most visitors pass through Rissani on the way to the sand. Those who stop discover that the town has more character than the dunes.