The Writers Who Stayed

Culture

The Writers Who Stayed

Bowles. Burroughs. Choukri. Ben Jelloun.

Culture5 min

Paul Bowles arrived in Tangier in 1947 and stayed until his death in 1999. The Sheltering Sky — set in the Sahara — is the novel that defined Morocco for English-speaking readers. Bowles wrote Morocco as alien, beautiful, and terrifying. He also recorded and transcribed oral stories from Moroccan storytellers — Mohammed Mrabet, Larbi Layachi, Ahmed Yacoubi — translating from Darija into English. The stories he preserved would otherwise have been lost.

William Burroughs wrote Naked Lunch in Tangier's Hôtel El Muniria in the late 1950s. The Beat Generation passed through — Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg, Tennessee Williams, Truman Capote. Tangier's international zone offered freedom that mid-century America did not. The city's literary mythology was built by foreigners.

Mohamed Choukri wrote For Bread Alone — the autobiography of a childhood of extreme poverty, violence, and survival in Tangier and Tetouan. It was first published in English (translated by Bowles) in 1973 because no Arabic publisher would touch it. The explicit portrayal of hunger, crime, and sexuality in Morocco was too raw. It was banned in Morocco until 2000. It is now considered a masterpiece of Arabic literature.

Tahar Ben Jelloun won the Prix Goncourt — France's highest literary prize — in 1987 for The Sacred Night. Writing in French, he explores identity, sexuality, and tradition in Morocco with a lyrical density that requires slow reading. His work bridges the Francophone and Moroccan literary traditions.

Leila Slimani — born in Rabat, based in Paris — won the Prix Goncourt in 2016 for Chanson Douce. A new generation of Moroccan-origin writers in French — Slimani, Mahi Binebine, Fouad Laroui — are producing literature that examines Morocco from both inside and outside simultaneously.


Tangier's literary geography is a walk we know well. From the Petit Socco to Bowles' apartment on the hill — it takes an afternoon.

Tell us about your trip →

Data and visualisation by Dancing with Lions


The Facts

  • Paul Bowles: arrived 1947, stayed 52 years
  • Mohamed Choukri: For Bread Alone (1973)
  • William Burroughs: wrote Naked Lunch in Tangier
  • Tennessee Williams: frequent visitor
  • Jack Kerouac: visited Burroughs in Tangier
  • Tahar Ben Jelloun: Prix Goncourt 1987
  • Fatima Mernissi: Dreams of Trespass
  • International Zone era (1923-1956): literary magnet

Sources

  • Bowles, Paul. The Sheltering Sky. John Lehmann, 1949
  • Burroughs, William. Naked Lunch. Olympia Press, 1959
  • Green, Michelle. The Dream at the End of the World: Paul Bowles and the Literary Renegades in Tangier. HarperCollins, 1991

The intelligence layer. History, culture, craft.