Ait Benhaddou

Ait Benhaddou

Ait Benhaddou is a ksar — a fortified village — on the old caravan route between Marrakech and the Sahara. It sits on a hillside above the Ounila River, a collection of earthen towers and walls that UNESCO inscribed in 1987. A handful of families still live inside the walls. Everyone else has moved to the modern village across the river.

The ksar has appeared in more films than any other location in Morocco — Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator, Game of Thrones, The Mummy. The reason is obvious. The mud-brick towers against the sky look exactly like what a film director imagines when someone says "ancient desert fortress." Atlas Studios in nearby Ouarzazate supplies the crews.

But Ait Benhaddou was not built for cinema. It was built for defence. The towers — called tighremt — are family dwellings fortified against raiders. The narrow streets were designed to be defended by a small number of fighters. The granary at the top of the hill stored enough food to survive a siege.

The ksar is 32 kilometres northwest of Ouarzazate, a short detour off the N9 highway. Most visitors stop for an hour on the way to or from Marrakech. Those who stay overnight — in the handful of guesthouses across the river — see the ksar at sunset and sunrise, when the walls glow the colour of copper.

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