Coastal
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3,500 kilometres. Two seas.

Coastal

Atlantic to the west, Mediterranean to the north, the Strait of Gibraltar where they meet. Essaouira's ramparts face into a permanent gale. Agadir's beach stretches for eleven kilometres. Tangier sits at the crossing point between two continents and has the particular restlessness of a city that has always been on the way to somewhere else.

Cities & destinations

Places

Essaouira Walls

Monuments

Essaouira Walls

Portuguese walls redesigned by a French engineer for a Moroccan sultan. The cannons still point to sea, stamped with the names of European foundries that supplied both sides.

Skala du Port: Essaouira's Portuguese Ramparts

Monuments

Skala du Port: Essaouira's Portuguese Ramparts

The sea bastion where Orson Welles filmed Othello in 1949. Climb the ramp to find cannons, seagulls, and the sound of Atlantic waves. The fishing fleet fills the view below.

Essaouira Port

Working areas

Essaouira Port

Not a tourist attraction — a working port where sardines and sharks are landed each morning. The auction happens early; the port-side grills serve the catch by noon.

Essaouira Beach

Natural

Essaouira Beach

The wind that makes sunbathing uncomfortable makes it perfect for kites. The beach stretches south for miles.

Tangier Kasbah

Neighborhoods

Tangier Kasbah

The highest point of the old city, where sultans once lived and the views reach to Spain. A fortress, then a palace, now a tangle of streets above streets.

American Legation

Museums

American Legation

The first American public property outside the United States, donated by a sultan in 1821. Morocco recognised American independence before most of Europe did.

Cape Spartel

Natural

Cape Spartel

Where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean at Africa's northwestern tip. The lighthouse marks the geography; the views take in two seas and, on clear days, Spain.

Hercules Cave

Natural

Hercules Cave

Legend says Hercules rested here. The Phoenicians quarried millstones, leaving a rock aperture that looks remarkably like Africa. Whether intentional or pareidolia, the photograph is obligatory.

Kasbah of the Udayas

Neighborhoods

Kasbah of the Udayas

Rabat's original fortress, turned home by Andalusian refugees after 1609. Blue and white streets, flower pots on steps, cats in doorways — the palette came before Chefchaouen.

Stories

Journeys in Coastal

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