Palais Bahia

Built by a man with four wives and twenty-four concubines, Palais Bahia is less a palace than a negotiation in architecture. Grand Vizier Si Moussa began construction in the 1860s; his son Ba Ahmed expanded it in the 1890s, adding room after room in a sprawl that now covers nearly two acres. The name means "Palace of the Beautiful" — dedicated to Ba Ahmed's favourite wife. But the layout tells a different story: separate quarters for each wife, carefully calibrated to signal rank without causing war. The largest apartment, with its own garden and fountain, belonged to the favourite. The others made do with less. Look up. The painted cedar ceilings are the palace's glory — geometric patterns in faded blues, greens, and golds. The zellige tilework rises to chest height; above it, carved stucco. Every surface is worked. The courtyards offer relief: orange trees, marble fountains, sky. Best time: Early morning or late afternoon. Midday brings tour groups. Allow: 1-1.5 hours Combine with: El Badi Palace and Saadian Tombs (all in the Kasbah quarter)